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October 2007 - Food

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October 2007 Food Articles:

Winter squash at its best now because it's abundant and of local origin

By Gerald Etter

iStock_3154020buttersquash.jpgThere are winter squashes and there are summer squashes, but many can be found at the market all year long — thanks to varied growing areas, better storage facilities and swift transportation.

The primary difference is the thickness of their skins. Summer squash have thin skins because they are harvested early, before they mature; the winter variety, however, are best when harvested fully mature in late summer and early fall; thus, thick skins.

Beginning in October, produce shelves are filled with winter squash: acorn, buttercup, butternut, pumpkin, Hubbard. Not only are they at their best, but they are less costly because of their abundance and local origins.

One of my favorites is the bright, golden-colored butternut squash. With its long neck and bulbous blossom end, it has a club-like appearance. Its skin is thinner than most of its winter squash siblings, which makes peeling easy. Its rich and sweet orange flesh is easily transformed into a lush, creamy delight.

Look for the heaviest
When selecting winter squash, keep in mind the guideline critical to most produce selection — look for those that are heavy for their size. A butternut squash that seems too light was probably picked immature or, worse yet, is over the hill.

Storage at home is simple. Winter squash does not require refrigeration. You can store butternut at room temperature for about one week, while the thicker-skinned variety can stay around even a little longer.

Basic cooking guidelines for all winter squash: Halve and quarter. Cut into wedges and remove seeds, rind side down. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 to 60 minutes. Small and medium-size winter squash can be baked whole in a preheated 350-degree oven for 40 to 80 minutes. After baking, remove seeds and season the squash.

Its natural sweet flavor goes well with such seasonings as allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Tips on preparation
Here are some tips on preparing a butternut squash for the following recipe (adaopted from Gourmet magazine): Cut off the stem, then cut the squash in two where the neck meets the bulbous end. This makes peeling easier.

Peel the cylindrical neck lengthwise, with a sharp knife (a vegetable peeler might work), removing enough of the skin so the orange flesh appears. Make sure any layer of green is also removed. For the bulbous end, remove the skin much as you would an apple, cutting around it in a spiral fashion.

Cut the bulbous part in half lengthwise and remove the seeds with a spoon. Cut the neck in half lengthwise. Cut the squash into half-inch pieces as specified in this recipe:


Butternut Squash
with Shallots

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 shallots, peeled,
halved lengthwise, then cut
crosswise into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices
1 butternut squash (about 2 pounds) peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded,
and cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes
1⁄2 cup chicken broth (or water)
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
(or more to taste)
1⁄2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste


Heat oil in 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat. Cook shallots and squash, stirring, until shallots are softened, about 5 minutes. Add broth, brown sugar, sage and salt, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until squash is tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Stir occasionally so ingredients don’t stick. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar, salt and pepper. Makes four servings.

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Another Sabrina’s — friendly and welcoming, with generous portions

‘Try the mussels’ at Callowhill café, reader suggests  

By The Senior Snacker

MS_1007_Snacker.jpgThe new Sabrina’s Café, at 18th and Callowhill Sts., is destined to attract loyal patrons, as does the first Sabrina’s in South Philadelphia.

It’s in a former diner, converted to a BYOB café with a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Snacking takes on a new meaning with generous portions. The menu features flavors reminiscent of Italy, Greece and Thailand.

One brunch special is the Cranberry-Oreo-Vanilla Stuffed French Toast — filled with cream cheese, topped with strawberries and a berry-vanilla syrup. One serving, $11.95, is more than enough for two, even three.

The Bella Vista Omelet has three fillings; you can choose from 12 possibilities. It’s served with parmesan string potatoes, sweet-fried or home-fried, and a red cabbage and apple salad, $8.29.

Lunch takes on new dimensions with the Vegetarian Philly Cheesesteak Marinated Grilled Vegetable Sandwich. As impressive as its title, it’s packed with portabella mushrooms, tomatoes, onion, spinach, eggplant, mozzarella cheese and served with cabbage-apple salad and choice of potatoes — for $9.29.

 Entrées include sautéed vegetables with a choice of garlic mashed potatoes or honey-ginger sweet potato mash. Prices range from $12.95 for meat loaf with spinach, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, provolone cheese and Canadian bacon, served with a mushroom herb gravy, to New York strip steak at $23.95, pan-seared with fresh garlic, shallots, fresh herb rub, topped with portabella mushrooms, caramelized onions and a port reduction sauce.

Seafood choices include mussels, calamari, tilapia, salmon, tuna and shrimp at mid-range prices. These are  Milestones reader Alfred E. Rizzio’s  favorite; tipping us off to Sabrina’s, he wrote that it’s “a great place for a snack on mussels; I have them here often. Try them, you’ll enjoy.”

The young servers add a charming effervescent helpfulness when a customer is lost in the luscious possibilities. When I said I was disappointed with the bean soup, I was immediately brought a flavorful chicken pasta soup substitute.

 Sabrina's Cafe
1802 Callowhill St.
Philadelphia Pa. 19130
215-636-9061
Hours: Monday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Tuesday to Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10 p.m.

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Calendar
08.29.08 : Gregor Mendel: Planting the Seeds of Genetics
08.29.08 : Calder Jewelry
08.29.08 : Enhance Fitness Program
08.29.08 : Painting & Drawing Class
08.29.08 : Real Pirates: The Untold Story of the Whydah from Slave Ship to Pirate Ship
08.29.08 : Paintings from Hartnett, Peto and Accomplices: Trompe l'oeil
08.29.08 : Reverberations: Modern & Contemporary Art from the Bank of America Collection
08.29.08 : Smooth Jazz Summer Nights: Saxophonist Walter Beasley, Bassist Gerald Veasley, Jazz Guitarist Chuck Loeb
08.30.08 : Gregor Mendel: Planting the Seeds of Genetics
08.30.08 : Calder Jewelry
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