Much-maligned garlic becoming the ‘darling’ of food lovers and chefs

By Gerald Etter

Garlic, a much-maligned member of the onion family, has become what Julia Child referred to as “the darling” of food lovers and chefs everywhere.
In ancient times, garlic was the darling of many cultures. The ancient Israelites, in the Book of Numbers, complain to Moses, while wandering in the wilderness, that they long for the fish they ate in Egypt, and the melons, leeks, onions and garlic. Right there, in chapter 11, verse 5.

Some ‘How To’s
Garlic also is believed to have medicinal powers, from stabilizing blood pressure and lowering cholesterol to warding off the common cold. Some sources refute garlic’s curative claims, but there is no denying its spicy and pungent flavor, which softens and sweetens when cooked, and adds a sensuous dimension to prepared foods.

When you purchase garlic, look for large bulbs, because larger cloves are easier to handle. Avoid heads with signs of sprouting or soft spots.

At home, store garlic in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. Moisture brings on sprouting, causing bitterness. Sprouting begins with the green “germ” — from germinate — in the center of each clove. Most cooks remove it before mincing or chopping the clove.

More advice
The easiest way to separate cloves is to slice off the top of the head and give it a sharp smash with your palm. If you are using many, drop the cloves in a small saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and let them cool in cold water. The skins will slip off easily.

Here is a method for roasting garlic cloves in their skins. The cloves can be added to roasts during the last five minutes of cooking, and served with hamburgers, meatloaf, even salads. Top warm bread with them. Use them hot or cold. Just squeeze the skin, and out pops the buttery clove.

This procedure is adapted from one by Gordon Hamersley, chef-owner of Hamersley’s Bistro, in Boston:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Separate cloves from two heads of garlic. Do not remove skins. Place cloves in saucepan and cover with water by 1/2 inch. Bring to a boil and boil one minute; drain.

Transfer to baking dish large enough to hold cloves in one layer. Pour just enough oil (about 1 tablespoon or more) to be able to coat cloves by rolling them in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake on the middle rack until very soft and tender, about one hour. Toss cloves halfway through cooking time.

You can uncover the pan during the last 10 minutes to let cloves brown.
You may refrigerate the roasted cloves for up to six days, covered with oil in a covered jar.

Here is a good, garlicky recipe:

Garlic Mashed Potatoes
6 cloves raw garlic
or 8 cloves roasted garlic
31/2 pounds russet potatoes
1 cup light cream
1 cup Half and Half
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/4 cup grated Parmesan

If using raw cloves, peel, slice and mash on cutting board using fork. Set aside on small dish. If using roasted garlic, squeeze cloves from skins onto small dish. Set aside.

Peel and slice potatoes in chunks approximately equal in size. Place in large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to maintain rolling boil. Cook until potatoes are tender when poked with fork, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat light cream, Half and Half, and garlic in medium saucepan over medium heat until simmering. Remove from heat and set aside.
Remove potatoes from heat and drain. Mash and add the garlic-cream mixture, salt and Parmesan, stirring to combine. Let stand to allow mixture to thicken, about five minutes. Serve.