By Gerald Etter
At our house, the festive holiday season was a time when we looked forward to eggnog and a sweet, rich chocolate mousse created from a delicate infusion of cream, sugar, chocolate and eggs.
Then in 1989, Salmonella bacteria felled six residents of a Pennsylvania nursing home who had eaten food containing undercooked eggs. Suddenly raw eggs were taboo and everything from from homemade mayonnaise to Caesar salad was banished.
Even if Salmonella in eggs is only an occasional problem, it is a serious health threat for the elderly, the very young and those of any age with a weakened immune system or chronic illness.
The good news is that most commercial products containing raw eggs are fine because they are pasteurized. And if you have the patience, you can safely create your favorite chocolate mousse by heating the milk, sugar and raw eggs to 160 degrees. Be sure to use a quick-read food thermometer to make sure the temperature reaches 160 degrees. And remember to wash the thermometer in very hot soapy water before re-dipping it into the egg mixture.
You can also safely create a mousse by using pasteurized eggs in the shell, a relatively new product. These are safe to use in all dishes that call for raw eggs, but they are more expensive than regular eggs. One brand is Davidson’s Safest Choice, sold at Genuardi’s markets.
Following is a recipe for a delicious Cognac Espresso Mousse using no eggs, courtesy of Maida Heatter, the popular dessert cookbook author.
Cognac Espresso Mousse
3 tablespoons powdered instant espresso or coffee
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 envelope (1/4 ounce) unflavored gelatin
1/8 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups milk
3 tablespoons cognac (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup whipping cream
Place coffee, sugar, gelatin, salt and milk in 6-cup saucepan. Stir to mix and let stand about 3 minutes to soften gelatin. Whisk and stir over moderate heat for a few minutes — only until milk is warm and coffee and gelatin are dissolved (test by dipping a metal spoon in and out of the mixture; undissolved granules will stick to the spoon.)
Remove from heat, pour into wide bowl and set bowl into larger bowl of ice and water. Stir occasionally until cool. Mix in cognac and vanilla.
Meanwhile, in chilled bowl with chilled beaters, whip cream until it just barely holds shape. Set aside.
When gelatin mixture has cooled, stir and scrape bottom and sides of bowl with spatula, until mixture thickens to consistency of unwhipped heavy cream.
Quickly pour gelatin mixture into room-temperature bowl.
In about three parts, quickly but carefully fold gelatin mixture into whipped cream. Then gently pour mixtures back and forth from one bowl to another until two mixtures are incorporated.
Pour into pitcher and then from pitcher into 6-ounce coffee cups or wine glasses. For a chocolate-y touch, grate semisweet chocolate over each individual dessert.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for four hours or longer, until set.
Makes six servings.
By the Senior Snacker
WingWalker Pub, in Feasterville, Bucks County, is the former Inn Flight, named in memory of those “daring young men in their flying machines” who climbed out on the wings of their biplanes and did stunts in air shows after World War I.
The fondness of owner Bob Bales for those daredevils is evidenced by the paintings and photos on the walls.
Some of the delicacies are almost as daring, especially two desserts that we’ll get to later.
It was Gail C. Parker of nearby Northeast Philadelphia who alerted us to WingWalker. She and her husband have been going there for years, and recommend the crabcakes, the warm rolls and the selection of beers, including one named for the restaurant.
“Go there before 4,” she suggests. “You can enjoy the lunch menu with the same foods as dinner, for a few dollars less.”
Dining there on a Saturday evening, we noticed a mixed-age crowd, including many seniors.
Entrées are accompanied by a hefty salad, although you can substitute the soup of the day.
We chose the Lobster Bisque and the New England Clam Chowder, each served in a crock to keep it hot and each truly delicious. Add $1 to the bill for these soups.
Instead of the recommended crabcakes, we enjoyed the sautéed crabmeat. Also, “Amelia’s Coconut Shrimp.” I don’t know who Amelia is, or was (Earhart, maybe?), but its tangy coconut flavor and slightly breaded coating make it a winner. Baked or fried potatoes and another vegetable round out the full platter.
On the several-pages-long menu is everything from burgers to lobster, a choice of martinis, a lot of “battered beers” and a hefty wine list.
And if you’re bringing the grandchildren, there’s a Piper Cub kids menu.
Unfortunately, no room was left for dessert, but two that caught my eye (demanding a return trip) were Colossal Carrot Cake, with carrots, pineapple, walnuts, creamy cheesecake and pistachio nuts, and Chocolate Cloud Nine, three pastry puffs with Chantilly cream, covered with chocolate mousse — $5.25 each.
Entrées average from about $14 to $20, well worth the quality and quantity of food, plus the friendly service.
Inn Flight WingWalker Pub
284 E. Street Road, Feasterville, Pa. • 215-357-9988
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.;
Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. (dinner only)
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